The owners, Anthony and Domenico Sacramone, who are brothers, have run Sac’s Place in Astoria, Queens, since 1989. Their new place, which opened in January in East Meadow, is casual, sleek and good-looking.
On entering Sacramone’s, patrons first encounter a small, handsome bar, then turn left into a two-tiered dining room, with balcony seating up a few steps. A large, 19th-century, pre-unification map of Italy catches the eye on one wall, surrounded by reproductions of drawings by Renaissance masters. The floor is tile, the tables granite, topped with white cloth napkins.
Sacramone’s owners do not just meet, and seat, their customers. On the first visit, they introduce themselves and extend a warm welcome; on the second, they treat you like regulars. Waiters may not always know who ordered which dish, but they reflect the owners’ friendliness and make diners feel comfortable.
The bread basket is a good one, filled with warm, house-made focaccia and slices of sturdy Italian bread. Most diners will not need an appetizer, since all entrees come with either a side of pasta or the choice of a Caesar or house salad.
Both salads were way above average. The Caesar had house-made croutons and crunchy, fresh romaine, with a classic dressing. The house salad, served with a vinaigrette, had similar romaine, shaved onions, a handful of flavorful Italian olives and slices of cucumber and summer-quality tomatoes.
Those who decide to order appetizers have enticing choices. A special consisting of layered polenta, eggplant and mozzarella in a noteworthy marinara sauce was an unqualified success. So, too, was a big bowl of plump mussels in a lush marinara sauce so good that we sopped up every drop.
We also liked the fresh baby artichokes sautéed in olive oil with slices of garlic. They weren’t “crispy fried” as the menu promised, but they were delicious, and I’d order them again. A mountain of portobello mushroom slices in white wine and garlic also hit the spot. Pasta e fagioli, made with a tomato broth, red beans and flat pasta, was far from the classic, but it tasted great anyway.
The dish that symbolizes Sacramone’s for me was a special listed as “Papa’s all-time favorite.” It consisted of two slow-cooked shoulder lamb chops in a rich tomato ragù with super-light house-made gnocchi. The fork-tender meat fell away from the marrow bones into the splendid sauce. The recipe for the dish comes from the owners’ mother, Maddalena, 87, who also makes all the house-made pastas in the restaurant.
Pastas, all priced in the teens, were tasty and robust. Angel hair in an assertive puttanesca sauce of tomatoes, olives, capers and anchovies was the best version of this dish I have ever tasted. Pappardelle amatriciana included unorthodox additions like peas and mushrooms, along with the expected bacon and prosciutto.
The only entree that missed the mark was the veal, in a too-sweet marsala sauce. A better pick was shrimp scampi, with nine jumbos in a smooth, garlicky butter and white wine sauce.
The restaurant also features crisp, thin-crusted, coal-oven pizzas in three sizes. The small one (10 inches) makes a perfect entree.
The dessert to try is the Tuaca sundae, consisting of slices of banana sautéed in the vanilla- and citrus-flavored liqueur, then poured over vanilla ice cream: bananas Foster, Italian-style. Other desserts come from Bleecker Pastry Tartufo in Long Island City, Queens, and are of good quality. A rich chocolate mousse cake and a creamy American cheesecake were the best of those sampled.
Sacramone’s is a great family place, with a children’s menu of entrees priced at $8.95, which includes a soda and ice cream. Those entrees are a hit parade of kid favorites: pizza, chicken fingers, ravioli or spaghetti and meatballs.
Sacramone’s is enjoyable right now, but come summer, there will be even more to love, since the restaurant plans on serving fresh vegetables from the family farm in Pennsylvania as well as from neighboring farms. That will make one more reason to visit this great addition to Long Island’s Italian restaurant landscape.
Sacramone’s
2366 Hempstead Turnpike
East Meadow
(516) 513-1919
sacramones.com
DON’T MISS
THE SPACE Sleek, spacious, two-tiered dining room. There are no steps at the entrance.
THE CROWD Casual, with lots of big groups, including children. The staff is friendly and accommodating, starting with the owners.
THE BAR A small, attractive, mirror-backed bar with a shiny granite top and four stools. There is a wine list of 84 bottles ($22 to $150), with numerous choices in the $20s, plus 13 wines by the glass ($6 to $9).
THE BILL Lunch entrees, $7.95 to $18.95. Dinner entrees, $10.95 to $23.95. Pizzas are $9.50 to $18.95. Portions are huge, and entrees come with a salad or a side of pasta, making the prices even more reasonable. American Express, MasterCard, Visa and Discover accepted.
WHAT WE LIKED Polenta layered with eggplant, portobello mushrooms, baby artichokes, pasta e fagioli, mussels, Caesar salad, house salad, slow-cooked lamb chops, pappardelle amatriciana, angel-hair puttanesca, pizza, shrimp scampi, Tuaca sundae.
IF YOU GO Open Sunday, Monday, Wednesday and Thursday, noon to 10 p.m.; and Friday and Saturday, noon to 11. Closed Tuesday. Reservations are recommended.
RATINGS Don’t Miss, Worth It, O.K., Don’t Bother.
