NEW YORK—There’s a lot of great reasons to stay in Long Island City on your next trip to this city, but here’s the best: you get a knockout view of the Manhattan skyline you’d never get in Manhattan.
Toss in an assortment of great museums, a burgeoning restaurant industry and hotel rates that can be 30 to 50 per cent cheaper than across the river and it’s a done deal.
There are a few things worth noting up front. This isn’t a place for five-star hotels or elegant boutiques. It’s a totally safe area, but it’s got its rough edges. Think of it as the indie music part of the city and you’ll have the right idea.
Long Island City was a major industrial part of the city when I grew up in neighbouring Astoria in the 1950s and 60s. As a lot of smaller businesses closed down and the rest relocated to cheaper areas, the place became a kind of a ghost town, with a few scattered residential pockets.
But, as frequent visitors will note by the greening of Brooklyn that happened over the last decade, when Manhattan gets too expensive and crowded, things move to the nearest available space. Which is why Long Island City is truly the next big thing in New York.
The ultimate symbol of its renaissance occurred last April, when Mayor Michael Bloomberg opened the new 200,000 square-foot headquarters of JetBlue in a renovated century-old building where Rolls-Royce autos used to be made.
Bloomberg is one of Long Island City’s biggest boosters and he has spearheaded a $45-million series of access routes for pedestrians, cars and bikes throughout the area to revitalize its waterfront.
All in all, it’s a cool place and I enjoyed staying at one of the two dozen new hotels that have sprung up in Long Island City over the past few years. The Wyndham Garden Manhattan View hotel is new, totally comfortable and next to a terrific scenic walkway along the waterfront. It also has lots of nice little touches like a shuttle bus to the nearest subway, although it’s only a 10-minute walk.
When I also found out that award-winning BBQ was only two blocks away, I felt right at home. John Brown’s Smokehouse is the kind of honest, casual place you’d expect to find in Kansas City or Austin, not a stone’s throw from Manhattan.
There’s a chalkboard menu, updated daily, with lots of choice, and it’s reasonably priced. Fifteen dollars will let you leave stuffed. I hit the beef brisket sandwich, my wife the pulled pork. A side of excellent slaw and some crusty cornbread rounded out things nicely, as did the two old guys in the corner arguing points of Civil War military strategy with owner Josh Bowen.
A few stops on the subway will take you to the Museum of the Moving Image, one of the city’s hidden treasures. The building is sleek and supermodern, but the exhibits honour everything from the early days of flip books right through the grand movie palaces of the 1930s to the special effects of today.
It’s not only great to look at, it’s wonderfully interactive, with booths where you can dub yourself into My Fair Lady or Some Like it Hot, stations where you can create your own animated film strip and even have a chance to get up close and personal with the mechanical Regan McNeill doll from The Exorcist.
You’ve also got to hit up MOMA PS1, the “out-there” offshoot of the Museum of Modern Art, built inside what was once an actual Public School (PS1), now housing some of the best art installations in the city. It’s also the home of M. Wells Dinette, a retro food experience that combines luscious home baking with some out-there entrees — the bone-marrow tart with escargot and porcini: wow!
At one point you’ve really got to hit Dutch Kills. It’s in a slightly remote part of the ’hood, but only a few minutes’ walk from subway hub Queens Plaza. A genuine 1920s speakeasy has been lovingly restored by its owners, but they don’t stop with the looks. They recreate period cocktails with all-natural ingredients and even chill their drinks with ice chipped from a block, just like in the good old days. And there’s a tasty menu of bar snacks as well (the flourless chocolate cake is better than booze).
SLEEPING The Wyndham Garden Long Island City Manhattan View isn’t fancy, but it’s spanking clean, brand new and very friendly. Rooms from $200 (Canadian). 44-29, 9th St.; 1-888-310-2100, wyndham.com. The Verve was voted #1 in Long Island City by Trip Advisor users and it boasts a central location, free breakfast and Wi-Fi, and a fitness centre complete with steam room. $175. 40-03, 29th St.; (718)-786-4545, vervehotel.com. The Z New York has a great view of the Manhattan skyline as its major selling point, and there’s a rooftop bar/lounge to enjoy it even more. The free shuttle service helps you get around nicely. $245. 11-01, 43rd Ave.; 212-319-7000, zhotelny.com
DINING While sipping classic cocktails at Dutch Kills, enjoy a killer grilled cheese sandwich, a meltingly good Italian pork shoulder and yummy desserts like an orange meringue tart. $20. 27-24 Jackson Ave.; 718-383-2724, dutchkillsbar.com. Five Napkin Burger is opposite the Museum of the Moving Image. It’s worth dropping in for the signature burger, blanketed in caramelized onions and melting cheese. $15. 35-01, 36th St.; 728-433-2727, 5napkinburger.com. The atmosphere at John Brown Smokehouse is authentic and so is the BBQ, wood smoked on the premises. Great selection of beers, too. $20. 10-43, 44th Dr.; 347-617-1120, johnbrownseriousbbq.com.
DOING No matter your taste in movies, you’ll enjoy the spacious and user-friendly Museum of the Moving Image. Plan on spending several hours. $12. 36-01, 35th Ave.; 718-777-6888, movingimage.us. The MOMA PS 1 is more of a hip urban gathering place than a stuffy museum, but it’s still home to some of the edgiest art you’ll find in NYC. $10 22-25 Jackson Ave.; 718-784-2084, momaps1.org. The Noguchi Museum is an amazing collection of art by Japanese-American sculptor Isamu Noguchi. Try to arrive for one of the gallery tours at 2 p.m., free with the $10 admission. 9-01, 33rd Rd.; 718-204-7088, nguchi.org.
